The Glove - Our personal connection through the hands.
When people think Hill style longbows and accoutrements, thoughts most common are attributed to the bow, arrows and quiver. However, the fingers are our connection to the bow in a most personal way and how we hold the string and how good our release is, determines much to the outcome of the shot.
The casual observer of Hill and his devotees such as John Schulz and Bob Swinehart, and others such as Wayne Stotler, Guy Madison will notice that to a man, they all used the same style of glove that Hill did. Namely three fingerstalls held in place by a snug fit and a loose wrist strap. What is lesser known is the construction of the stalls and the inserts place therein to stiffen the stall and prevent any grooving of the leather. It is purported that Hill used many different types of material for his stall inserts, from turkey quills to baleen to plastic. I'm sure that they all worked, but some were probably longer lasting than others. The insert material and stiffness (or lack thereof) is a very personal thing, but there are nuances that can help the shooter get the best release possible for their unique shooting idiosyncrasies. Because none of us are Hill, we each will bring a different perspective to the release as to what is easier and simpler for us to use, and what gives us the smoothest release. These are tips and tricks that I've come to use, based on study and the Schulz lessons.
The early photos and videos of Hill show him using a closed-end glove stall. Then for a period of many years, he used an open-end stall where his fingertips were just barely showing at the end of the stall (not protruding beyond the stall) and finally he finished up using a glove with closed ends that was sold by Shawnee Archery. Through these periods, I'm sure he tested different glove stalls and materials to get the best release he could. Hill was a tinkerer of sorts. These photos show variations of his gloves and the one photo shows his addition of a leather overlay on the stall, showing his insert overlay wasn't always located inside the stall as the gloves are made today.
The idea of a stall insert was to stiffen the stall and prevent the grooving of the leather. If leather is soft enough, then it won't groove. Some archers prefer a very soft glove or even a tab or bare fingers so they can feel the string. I don't believe Hill really could feel the string, and I know from close observation of Schulz's glove, he couldn't either. But that's not really that important as they both showed. Control of the arrow and string and anchoring the string against the face is handled regardless of whether the string can be "felt". One of the benefits of a stiff glove stall is that the finger doesn't curl back as much as when using a soft glove and therefore the tip of the glove/finger can be more firmly pressed into the anchor point at the side of the face. The face then feels this touch and recognizes the anchor point is reached, relaying it to the brain, rather than the fingertips relaying the information to the brain. I think this can be very beneficial to the new longbow archer learning the Hill style as the feel at anchor is very pronounced and indelibly marked in the brain through practice.
That said, it is very interesting that while John Schulz used a stiff glove as per Hill, some of John's best students did not. Pete George, Jean-Marie Coche, and Schulz's sons to name a few. Why, I wonder? Well, something Tom Schulz once said to me about it...referring to the Big Shot glove his brother James had recently introduced to the market..."This type of glove gives the best release". How could that be, I wondered. I didn't ask Tom, because I was a newcomer to this softer style of glove, having used a true Hill stiff glove for many years previously. Over time, and using the softer style of glove off and on over a few years, I came to realize how important the finger curl is to shooting a longbow well, and how it affects the drawing hand and hence, shooting form. I realized why Hill tried different types of inserts over the years. It's all about the connection. I discovered a small part of what Hill said about his shooting prowess...."it's all in the hands".
And that is food for thought until next time...
Shoot Straight.
This is the only way I deviate from the Hill / Schulz technique- I have tried gloves of the Hill type over and over- over the years and just can't get along with them- I use a Bateman Tab and have done well with it?
ReplyDeleteO one other devieation I Nock under the nocking tie have tried nocking over and my finger holding the arrow on the shelf while walking makes it slide up the string - other than that I follow Hills/Schulz recommendations
I recently purchased an American Leathers Big Shot glove with the plastic inserts; I have been previously using a Bear Archery glove. They are two very different gloves.
DeleteI'm still breaking in the Big Shot, but I think I'm going to prefer this glove for any bow over 50#. Around that weight, the hook starts getting too deep with the softer Bear glove and the plastic inserts really make a difference. Below that weight, I think I prefer the extra feel of the string I get with the Bear glove.
As for the nocking point, I've gone both ways but have circled back to nocking above, like Hill and Schulz. My specific reason is because of what happens when I'm walking in the woods and the tip of the arrow fetches on a branch or some grass. If I nock below, the arrow is held in place by the nocking point and the upper bow limb is forced forward and down (or the nocking point is forced up). If I nock above (like Hill), the arrow slides up the string and I can wrap my bow hands index finger around it to pull it parallel with the bow and keep going. In this configuration, I find it faster/easier to get through the brush.
Good comments by both. Different strokes for different people for sure. One thing about the nocking above and the arrow sliding up the string "issue" while hunting. I make my string serving just big enough to lightly grab the nock and it will slide up the string if I'm not attentive, but is not loose. A slight touch of side pressure by my index finger keeps the arrow against the shelf and the arrow in place on the string for short durations , but in reality, the idea I believe is that you keep both hands engaged on the bow and string. That way you're ready for a shot most of the time. If you're stillhunting and stalking as per Hill, you're moving very slowly and need to be ready for the shot and that requires handling the arrow on the string. If you're sitting in place, the arrow will stay on the string if the bow is held horizontally. Remember, Hill's approach was not geared to using a treestand and hanging the bow off a hook.
ReplyDeleteOn the ground at eye level to a deer there is no room for "extra movement" so I am always holding the bow and arrow on the string ready to shoot (even in a tree now). I also prefer the stiffer glove but also use the big Shot crossover for hunting. Sometimes I'll practice with the older Hill gloves to double check my release, Sometime that switch makes me realize my release and grip is off a tad, but when I hit the woods the crossover is always ready and there and more forging for me.
ReplyDeleteI only have had one Hill style bow for the last year and I’ve been shooting it with a soft glove. I have a Hill glove with inserts also but it just seems very off to use it as the inserts are very stiff and like stated in the article make it hard to feel the string. The soft glove which I enjoy using has always been my go to. I recently picked up a used Hill Wesley Special and is a heavier poundage. I’m looking forward to trying the stiffer glove on the heavier bow and see if/how it makes a difference in drawing, releasing etc. I think that it will be an interesting test. Also, have any of you fellas tried the talcum powder on your gloves and did it make any noticeable difference?
ReplyDeleteDave. The old -fashioned talc powder is the best. Not the kind that's just cornstarch. But really slickens the leather. More to follow about the Hill style stiff glove and how to break it in for best use
ReplyDelete