Finding Balance

       When we discuss arrows and arrow building in the Hill style, we are drawn to the wood arrow materials.  Hill himself wrote that he acknowledged that modern arrow materials (aluminum in that day) were probably better, but he stayed with wood for the nostalgia of it all.  I'm of the same opinion, and the processes we discuss are for wood, but honestly would also work with aluminum or even the old style fiberglass arrow material.  These three have an arrow weight that is more dense per inch than carbon, and the tuning and arrow flex is similar to each other.  Carbon has it's unique way of tuning, and that will be best left to those that understand that.  We're going to be talking wood in these pages,  because like Hill said, it's more nostalgic and in keeping with old-time archery.  However, when we're done, it will also be known that wood arrows can be very well matched and to a very fine degree if desired.  Wood arrows do not mean lesser quality and in some cases can mean better quality than the commercially available arrow materials.

         Proper balance of an arrow is important to its flight. In today's world of treestand and ground-blind hunting being predominantly pursued, close-range shooting has become a mantra.  Rare is the longbow archer that shoots at the distances that were enjoyed by our previous generations of archers.  It was common to shoot at targets up to 80 yards, even 100 yards on some of the field archery courses back in the day, and the American and York target rounds had long range targets. Having an arrow that was properly balanced was essential to any kind of accuracy.  These archers took those same well-flying arrows and shot game animals at much closer distances.  A balanced arrow can be accurate at close range or far.  The current trend of very front-heavy arrows was started by the carbon arrow trend, and has been transferred over to the wood arrow makers.  People will tell you their arrows fly like darts.  Well, a dart and an arrow have two different flights, for two different purposes.  A dart is thrown at extremely close range and the point end guides the trailing shaft and vane.  If someone tried to throw a dart very far, it would want to drop quickly, the heavy nose end bringing down it's flight.  It has no "carry".  This feature is overlooked and accepted by archers using this type of arrow in the close range hunting shots that dominate the traditional bowhunting world as we know it.  However, a balanced arrow has "carry", or rather the ability to fly on a gentle parabolic curve for a long distance.  There is a certain amount of lift on the arrow and fletching as it flies through the air, which enhances its flight.  This type of arrow can be accurately used for close range hunting shots, or even longer shots when necessary, or maybe more importantly, this flatter flying arrow can be more accurately shot through the varied tree cover, limbs, and brush because the arrow arc is flatter.  The various wood arrow shaft tapers can actually enhance this flight, namely a straight tapered arrow, a tail-tapered arrow and a breast-tapered arrow.  For the sake of ease, we'll discuss the simple tail-tapered and also a parallel arrow making procedure.

       But first...balance.  Seeking to find balance in our shooting. We need to be balanced with our shot, balanced in our form.  No leaning too far left or right.  A middle of the road approach which gives us an amount of forgiveness to the shooting of the arrow.  The Hill style longbow, and a proper wood arrow has an amazing amount of forgiveness when the archer is shooting from unorthodox positions or in difficult conditions.  If the arrow and head reach a proper balance, then the entire arrow will share the total weight.  No one part of the arrow will be unduly heavy or light as is the case with a dart.  If the entire arrow including the head contribute to the overall arrow weight, then the arrow will flex into the bow when shot, and that weight will help push the bow a little to the side, as was discussed in a previous blog, rather than causing the arrow to bend more around the bow 

      For our discussions, we must include the entire arrow weight and length, including the head of choice.  Hill and his student Schulz used arrows of different lengths for blunts and target points compared to broadheads. There's a little secret of balance to be learned in that approach which we'll discuss.  When we discuss arrow shaft length for spine purposes, whether static or dynamic, we will figure into the equation the length of shaft inside the head also. People will take me to task and say that the arrow inside the head does no flexing and shouldn't be counted, but then they'll include the unbending part of an aluminum arrow where the insert is located. In either case, just because that part of the arrow doesn't flex, it will still be included in the overall arrow configuration and dynamic spine equations. 

     There's lots of discussion about the balance point of the arrow and how far in front of the center of the shaft is  optimal. It's known as FOC, or EFOC (extreme front of center) .  People will quote certain formulas and such. I don't know if Hill or Schulz ever did figure out their formulas, or whether they cared, or whether they just made a common sense cedar wood arrow, put a head on the front that wasn't too heavy and shot it and observed the results.  An arrow that flew the line, to a target whether close or far without dropping too quickly was deemed correct for that bow. Schulz said his findings were, if the cedar wood arrows were the correct spine for the bow, they would also be the correct weight, resulting in optimum arrow flight and penetration in animals. That's about as technical as I witnessed Schulz being on the subject.  We'll dive a little deeper but still keep the entire process of making a well-flying wood arrow as simple as can be. 

       But thinking of balance, it's very interesting to note that with the personal arrows I have from Hill and Schulz, even though they are different lengths and have different feather sizes/length and different points/point weight, they both have almost the exact same balance point as each other... 2 1/4"- 2 1/2" front of center.  I don't care what the percentage of FOC is, but use the measurement to compare arrows. My personal arrows are also the same FOC 2 1/4" - 2 1/2". This balance point, with my arrows, results in a nice flying arrow that carries well out to 80 plus yards. I've shot the wand with Schulz and that was at 100 yards, great fun, and something that would be difficult at best to do with a modern 26% EFOC 600 gr. arrow from a 40# bow. 

      So let's not discuss that kind of arrow.

      We're going to dive into making a good old-fashioned wood arrow with a FOC that allows the arrow to carry through the air on a great path to your intended target. An arrow that is forgiving of shooting mistakes and will be of the proper balance, and which will help you to... 

     Shoot Straight.